SOME
TRIVIA NOTES ON MOVIE MAKE-UP
By Nenuca M. Jose
Makeup
artists are backstage artists. They don’t
show their faces. Their way to fame is
what they do to other people’s faces.
The public or the audience does not know
them. But they are an interesting lot.
The Manahan sisters are
described as the living legends in movie
makeup in this country. You can trace
the history of Philippine cinema through
their eyes. They are Andrea, Victorina
and Juanita. They are unanimous in declaring
that being a makeup artist is all about
creating different characters.
Let’s go way back
to the Atang de la Rama era—actually
the beginning of Philippine cinema. In
1919, it was said that Miss Atang moistened
red-colored papel de Japon (those used
to make kites) with water or saliva before
applying it to her cheeks and lips as
rouge.
During the beginning of
Philippine cinema, eyebrows were blackened
with burnt cork. Facial powder consisted
of pulbos-tsina (Chinese powder) which
was ground and mixed with water. This
makeup might have withstood the searing
stage lights but projected on the screen,
the white talc made the actresses and
actors garish and as pale as ghosts.
The Manahan sisters were
interviewed in December 2000 by Amor Olaguer
and Eileen Meneses. What they recounted,
according to the two interviewers, was
a nostalgic trip to the glorious years
of Philippine cinema, particularly the
directors and stars they had the pleasure
of working with.
It was Andrea—also
called Mama Ateng-- among the Manahan
sisters who had the longest stint in the
movies, over half a century. Earlier in
her career, she applied makeup on the
De la Rosa brothers, Rogelio and Jaime,
as well as superstars like Jose ‘Pempe’
Padilla Jr., Leopoldo Salcedo, Mario Montenegro,
Nestor de Villa, and even comedians Pugo
and Togo. Mama Ateng said that men’s
makeup in those days was very distinct
from women’s makeup. She clarified
that actors then should come across the
big screen as he-men. She added that fair-skinned
actors were usually tanned to make them
look more manly.
Those were also the days
when movies were still in black and white
but Mama Ateng had the pleasure of putting
the makeup on Carmen Rosales, Mila del
Sol, Rosa Rosal, Delia Razon, Lilia Dizon,
Tessie Quintana and later on, Marita Zobel,
Perla Bautista, and the late Charito Solis
and Nida Blanca.
Mama Ateng stressed that
the makeup artists during those times
were always told to define the characters
played by the actresses and actors, thus
they must read and understand the script.
She said they always seek guidance from
the director of the movie they were working
on. She emphasized that research was also
an important element then. They studied
the look of the period involved in the
film because everything, from hairstyle
to blush on, usually depended on this.
When films became Technicolor,
old stars stayed on, others disappeared
and new stars came onstage but the Manahan
sisters went their merry way applying
makeup on the stars.
Victorina or Nanay Tinay
was a freelancer. She was a makeup artist
even before the role of the production
designer was made pronounced in local
filmmaking. She therefore, in the absence
of the production designer, dabbled in
production design as early as that time.
Cast members were told to come to the
set or studio with lesser makeup on. Nanay
Tinay and the other makeup artists put
on the makeup demanded by the scene.
Nanay Tinay said that makeup
artists felt obligated to remain on the
set or location to watch the shooting,
specially if they were making action films.
She should always be on the alert to apply
the shiner on black eyes, the blood on
slammed noses, the wound on cut eyebrows,
etcetera. They should always make sure
that bruises they put on must always be
exactly where they were earlier applied.
Juanita or Mommy Nitz entered
showbiz through the stage, specifically
the extravaganza show of Lou Salvador
at the Manila Grand Opera House. Like
her sister Victorina, Mommy Nitz was also
a freelancer. She remembered the challenge
of applying makeup on the mestiza-type
Charito Solis for her role in Igorota.
In between scaling the Banawe rice terraces,
she had the harder chore of tanning Chato
all over to make her look like an Igorot
maiden.
Today, Mommy Nitz said,
it is common practice for stars to bring
along their own personal makeup artists
whose expertise and training often prove
inadequate. She made the observation that
some low budget producers are not very
particular nor meticulous about makeup.
A makeup artists makes P50,000 per movie
which shoots for 35 days. But there are
producers who allocate P10,000 for their
makeup artists.
The Manahan sisters
are one in saying that making compromise
is out of the question. They emphasized
that the art of makeup springs from experience
and
a lot of imagination for one to be able
to create the character as written down
in the script.